My ears always perk up when I hear a story about restaurateurs; I love the tales of successes and starting simple. But what about “simple but elevated” with a B.L.T. and chicken salad sandwich? In Cobleskill, NY a couple fueled with passion, a sense of adventure and maybe teaspoon of crazy found themselves trying to accomplish just that with Grapevine Farms.
“Ten years ago you could have ordered either the chicken salad sandwich or the B.L.T.,” explained Tracy Purcell, co-owner and the other half to the creative duo that operates Grapevine Farms in upstate New York. “It wasn’t because we didn’t want to offer a larger menu, it was because we couldn’t. We were new, inexperienced and gun shy. We started with what we knew and allowed the business to demand growth.” What a perfect perspective for any culinarian with the aspiration to open their own eatery. I love the philosophy behind minimal menus, but there is a caveat – a minimalist menu better be great.
As Tracy and her husband Tim explained the obstacles they had to overcome in transforming the eight thousand square foot farm house into a plush, three-story retail gift shop with a bakery, cafe and wine cellar, I was secretly ordering the chicken salad sandwich.
When a restaurant is brave enough to only offer a B.L.T and a chicken salad sandwich and is successful for more than ten years, there must be something extraordinary about this sandwich and I want to get to the bottom of it.
These days, the menu at Grapevine Farms boasts dozens of selections all looking tasty and well thought, but it’s the simple that I understand and truly appreciate. It’s courage mixed with fear I see in both Tim and Tracy’s food and concept that’s the reason for their success.
This food discovery is completely by accident and my own confusion. In Cobleskill, NY my GPS is without Starbucks navigation and my body needs caffeine fuel. So as I pull into the gravel parking lot, I’m a little nervous that the “coffee shop” my Siri has led me to may be an epic fail.
My gastronome adventure was anything but a fail though. It was a country shop offering incredible food, beverage and more. And frankly I’m shocked that this place exists in a town with a population not far from zero.
I feel like I have wandered into the same town Diane Keaton wandered into in the 80s movie “Baby Boom”. Not a bad place, but certainly a place I’m unfamiliar with. Mix a little New York and New Jersey with Indiana and there you have a good description of Cobleskill. The largest industry in this town is a college campus, which was the reason for my trip.
Let me first say my heart and stomach were swept away immediately by the mammoth offering of chocolate truffles, cookies, cakes and more. I hit the jackpot! Not only was this place in the coffee business, it had enough sugary treats to give Willie Wonka a cavity.
Now for lunch… and my point. I see the reason for this gold-metal chicken salad. Tim was not too keen on providing many details; he gave me the quick and dirty Cliff’s notes version. It begins with dried cranberries hydrated in Riesling, and then hand cut wheat bread (the bread bites back, if you know what I mean). It was all finished with ice-cold crispy lettuce and warm vegetable and pasta salad to complete my very large lunch plate.
The lunch continued, and Tim and Tracy were gracious hosts. They gave me the hundred dollar tour and even shared the history of the old farm dwelling and how their careers and passion led them to opening such a brilliant market niche concept.
The dining room is flooded with customers – every seat in the 50 seat dining room is full – with half a dozen waiting at the door. I didn’t even see a car in the street on my way here. From where and when did these customers materialize?
My descriptions won’t do the meal justice, because it’s part sandwich, part experience but mostly people. Had I stumbled into Grapevine Farms and just eaten a chicken salad sandwich, I may have returned if I lived nearby – it was a pretty good sandwich. But what I’m unable to explain is how my hosts created an experience with stories, memories and conversation that would make them my friends, not just restaurant operators. The well-honed concept will lead me back time and time again. I may not purchase a purse or a set of candlesticks, but the connection between food and people lives on.
Yes…it really is about the WhOLe experience…lovin’ life